I chose 2 different types of sliders, heavier duty for the file drawer and lighter sliders typical for kitchen drawers for the other.
After measuring for the file drawer, installation was relatively simple. The smaller drawer however, had two problems:
1) The screws to mount the slider on the drawer actually had to extend into the floating drawer bottom (lesson, next time allow some clearance between the drawer bottom and the slider mounting screws which are actually aligned with the drawer bottom. This was not the case for the file drawer sliders which were mounted 1 3/8 ” above the bottom edge.)
2) In order to insert the drawer into the cabinet mounted slider, I had to cut the rear corners of the drawer to allow enough clearance between the drawer and the cabinet opening.

Lessons well learned for next time!

I mentioned previously that I did not have a detailed plan but had drawn some sketches for the computer desk. I was originally going to install the drawers as I had done in all my previous pieces, with wood slides with mortise and tenons to fit within the interior of the cabinet frame. After thinking about the potential weight of the file drawer, I decided that it would be better to use metal slides that could bear the weight and not wear out over time. So the following post and pictures will show how I approached this. Note I have never done this before, so I am learning by doing.

Since I had already glued the cabinet sides, changing to use metal slides will require some unplanned work to install some wooden support rails onto which the slides can be mounted.

These rails need to be flush with the face of the drawer openings. So my first step was to cut a “gain” for each end of the support rails. After measuring carefully, I used my chisels to get the job done.

Fitting slider support rail on cabinet …
Preparing support rails for drawer sliders …

I also had to make the drawers themselves. Here are some shots of the work in progress.

After the rails and stiles have been planed to final thickness and cut to final length and width and they have been oriented and marked for their position in the cabinet door, the rail ends are routed first, face side down as below …

Because the inside surface of the door will fit within the opening in the cabinet with the outside surface of the door overlapping the face of the cabinet, in order for the rails to fit within the stiles once they are routed, I needed to cut a rabbet on the inside back edge of the stiles so the back edge of the rails would fit flush with the stile. (Note: I ran the rabbet the full length, but you could choose to run it down the stile for a length equal to the width of the rail).

After routing the stiles with the corresponding router bit to fit the rails, I assembled the rails and stiles to test the fit … and afterward, I cut a rabbet (you can see my test on the bottom rail) on the back outside edge of the entire door frame so that the door will fit within the opening in the cabinet.

Next, I took the measurements from the dry assembled door frame, to confirm the length and width of the panel.  After making about an eighth inch allowance for expansion, the panel was cut to final dimensions and then using the router, starting with the end grain, and taking 3 passes, I routed the panel face so that the edge will fit within the groove in the rails and stiles.

Dry assembled door …

The door assembly is now ready for sanding, staining and then gluing rails to the stiles, with the panel to float freely within the frame.  (Note:  My wife immediately pointed out that the grain on the panel runs horizontally.  For a stained finish with visible grain, it should run vertically.  Oh well, lesson learned!) 

My favorite task is sanding … NOT!!! … but it is essential for the best final result. I have found often once I start to apply the finish that I have not sanded enough … machine marks can be easily missed in the shadows.

Because the panels will float in the frame, in order to avoid any “naked” wood appearing after assembly, I suggest staining the panels before glue up. Also, it is easier than doing it when everything is assembled and glued.

I had a nice day and decided to work outside for most pieces. I was also expecting the natural light would help me see the machine marks more easily so I could be sure to remove them … took me about 4 hours.

Since almost all surfaces were planed, I sanded with my orbital sander using 120 grit paper and then for the surfaces that will be visible after assembly, I used 180 grit.

In these pĥotos, I show the uprights, stained first with a brilliant red alcohol based stain, which dries very quickly. This is followed with a water based black stain which is intended to hi-lite the grain and dull the red somewhat. After assembly, I will repeat the process on the visible surfaces. When the varnish is applied, it brings out the red for what I call a flame finish.

You can see the uprights in comparison against the finished centre module of the desk.

Now that the cabinet frames have been dry assembled, I can prepare the door for one cabinet and the drawers for the other. 

I am able to get accurate measurements from the assembled frame.  Making some allowance for waste I have cut and started to work the rough wood as shown in next series of shots, to make the rails, stiles and panel for the door.

Prep of rough wood for Door

First step is to prepare the rough pieces (using rough dimensions) for jointing and lamination.  As a general rule the pieces to be laminated should have a ratio of 4 to 1, width to thickness, to minimize warping if you are making a panel.   

Using 6 / 4 rough for the door rails and styles, and 4 / 4 for the door panel pieces, I have cut them to rough length, and because I am making a temporary panel (prior to cutting rails & stiles to final width) I have bisected the rough 8” & 6” widths using the band saw. 

Note:  I have found, even with kiln-dried wood, that some of my panels have warped over night.  I could probably get by not bisecting the 6 / 4 pieces, but I want to be sure I do not have trouble later.  Also, I usually try to wait at least a day, before I plane such pieces to final thickness, in case they do warp a bit.

Bisecting on the band saw …

Jointing each rough piece prior to lamination …

Gluing into (temporary) panel for rails stiles and the panel for the door itself …

You may have seen my prototype computer desk (flame finish) on another page … well I have been working on building the side cabinets (I wanted to make the desk modular, so that it could more easily fit into any room).  After the side cabinets (one with drawers, one with closed shelves), I expect to make a small desk top unit with some shelving to hold the speakers, CDRoms, etc.

I have taken some photos that show the progress from creating the laminated rails and panels to the dry assembly of each basic unit.

Much remains to do, and obviously I have not shown all the steps to this point.

Oh yes, do I have a blue print or plan?  Not really, I have sketched the concept and detailed the computer desk to set the basic dimensions.  I am logging all the assmbly details and measuremens as I work through them …  and I am double checking dimensions as I go

Note:  Some final dimensions can only be determined once the cabinets have been assembled to allow for the measurements to be taken accurately.

This is a recently completed project … a modular computer desk,

… I drew up some basic sketches and then started to draft the details for the build … and the first piece above was a ‘proof of concept’ …  the other modules now completed include 2 side units, one with drawers and the other cabinet with shelves … to be followed later with a smaller desk top storagre/shelf  unit