Photos will be posted as we complete each project.  A typical kitchen is described below.  Please contact me with any questions.

Characteristics of a typical kitchen:

• Standard height & depth lower (34 ¾ X 23 ¾) and upper cabinets (33 X 12 5/8)
• Cabinet frame components (including shelves) of 5/8″ melamine – common maple or white colour; option for other colours
• Frame construction – stapled and screwed
• Doors, drawer faces, and exposed panels made of solid wood
• Floating panels – flat or raised panels – choice of styles
• Wood components = poplar or soft maple  (option to choose another wood – will impact the price)
• Wood foot plate, cache-neon and crown moulding
• Wood finish – stain or paint
• Sprayed lacquer seal
• Pantry – 5 full extension drawers
• Drawer boxes – metabox or melamine; option for other choices
• 2 doors with glass panels
• Countertop – presswood with engineered laminate – choice of colour/pattern
• Standard door hinges and drawer slides – with installation
• Standard quality door handles & drawer pulls (option for brushed nickel, bronze, etc.)
• Option for inside cabinet hardware and inserts – lazy susan, cutlery tray, etc.

Excludes:

• pick up, delivery and installation of the cabinets
• installation of handles and pulls
• installation of counter top
• all taxes 

Mission Bookcase

 Not visible in these photos is a carved Confederate flag on the bottom rail of each side.  The bookcase is to house a collection of Civil War books.

Mission Bookcase

Cherry Wardrobe - doors closed

There are 8 dovetail drawers with floating cedar bottoms and 6 shelves with cedar panels floating within the cherry shelf frames.

Mortise & Tenon Joinery

 Once all the tenons were cut, I used my chisel as required to fit each tenon into each mortise – note I labeled each mortise and tenon so that once fit, I could easily match each rail to fit in its proper mortise since the frame will be disassambled several times for fitting the panels, routing and the sanding steps to follow.

The pic below shows the rear frame being fitted and dry assembled.  Note, I designed this to have 2 panels, since one single panel would be too wide and invite greater fluctuations in width with changes in humidity and temperature.

Frame Assembly

Back Frame - Rails & Stiles

 In the photo above, you can see the back frame fitted and the rails for the side panels (top and bottom).  In the photo below, you can see the side rails fitted with the front and back corners of the frame.  Now the final measurements for the panels can be taken.

1. Cut selected (i.e., no flaws that will weaken the frame) 8 / 4 poplar to rough length on the miter saw
2. Divide these lengths into about 3 1/2 inches rough width on the band saw – i.e., if your rough plank is 8 ” wide, split it into 2, if 10″, split it into 3
3. Calculate the number of rough pieces needed to make the 4 frame corners – 3 ” X 2 ” approx. – from a single panel.  This will be a total rough width of about 14 inches – including allowance for waste.
4. On the jointer, level the top and botom (widest) rough surfaces of each board – about 70% “clean” is enough to get the edges square
5. Again on the jointer, square both edges of each piece
6. Prepare to laminate the panel by aligning the edges of each squared piece, alternating the end grain orientation (reduces chances of warping) and then glue and clamp firmly – see the photos.  This will create a single rough panel from which each corner piece will be cut to final size. Note: You could skip this step and create each corner from the rough cut lengths, but I find that this approach tends to waste more wood and also tends to produce small inconsistencies in the dimensions. If your corners are all exacttly the same dimensions, it is easier to achieve a perfectly square cabinet.
7. Plane the panel to target thickness – 2″
8. On the table saw, after making sure the fence is properly set for final width – 3 inches – and that the panel edge that will run along the fence is perfectly flat (i.e., no banana), cut the 4 pieces to width
9. Again on the table saw, square one end of each corner piece prior to cutting to final length
10. Set these pieces aside – later the mortises will be cut for the rails.
11. Repeat this process to prepare the 2 side panels and the back panels
12. Similarly, prepare the 4 side frame rails and the single stile for the rear panels

In the photo above the jointed pieces are being positioned and glued prior to being clamped edge to edge.

Above:  The panel pieces are clamped.  Note the pieces are oriented such that the grain direction is alternated from piece to piece, to minimize warping.

Set them aside for about an hour.  Below, clamps removed and now ready to be planed …

Laminated Panel

Planing Bottom Panel

 Final thickness 3/4″ …

Panel at final thickness

 Once the frame is dry-assembled and the actual final dimensions are taken,  the panels can be cut … width first, then length.  I usually leave about 1/4″ of play on the width to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction.

so I thought I would document the steps in its construction.

Here are shots of the rough wood – poplar.  

Rough poplar

I need 3 sizes – 4 / 4 for the shelves and panels,  6 / 4  for the frame components, the top and doors, and  8 / 4  for the frame corners.  You may be able to see the frame corners after jointing and planing to size to the left of the rough wood  in the shot below …

Bathroom Vanity

The mirror and back splash / ledge were not yet installed when I took these pix.

Vanity

It is solid pine, with spaces between the rails to allow any damp wood to breathe a bit.  It has a solid bottom and hinged lid.  My wife did the stain and finish for me.

These are made of Spanish cedar with a single coat of Sikkens Cetol natural stain.   The joinery is mortise and tenon with the tenons being on the stiles.  I made the very simple panels using a 3/4″ straight bit so the panels would be flush with the frame.  I shaped the top rails and also gently scored the panels to add a little character.

For my next version I will cut slits in the panels to allow more light..

The ones below are made of pine and the panels are made using my panel router bit set.  I found these too tall, but otherwise would be suitable.  Quite simple to make.